A terrace by the Flea Market

Philippe Starck has designed restaurants across the world, as well as an apartment for François Mitterand and a super-yacht for Steve Jobs, but his dream was always to set his stall at the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, possibly the most renowned flea market in the world. This place of antique dealers and second hand shops was ripe for gentrification and he has certainly contributed towards that process with Ma Cocotte. Serving fine food in a converted warehouse in a flea market is certainly a humorous juxtaposition and one which clearly tickles Mr. Starck’s fancy, but the creativity exhibited here is absolutely serious and utterly delicious and the restaurant’s interior is beguiling. The menu offers bistro classics and a kind of high quality pub grub, all designed by master chef Yannick Papin. It’s not cheap but neither is it a wallet buster. In fact, the balance is just right on every level. Upstairs is a cocktail bar and a book-lined lounge and, yes, a perfectly delightful terrace on which to relax. JR.

Ma Cocotte, 106 rue des Rosiers in Saint Ouen
Tel. 01 49 51 70 00 www.macocotte-lespuces.com

Photo Ma Cocotte